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The Fashion Forecast 2007-Dec-30
 

The Shopping Guardian

What will you be wearing in the next 12 months? An illustrated dress perhaps? Or maybe a chin-high silk ruff? More likely, you'll be pulling on the world's most flattering It-jeans, stepping out in cone-heeled shoes from Britain's hottest footwear designer or looking smart in a born-again blazer... Our A-Z of fashion has all you need to guide you through the looks and the labels that will be shaping your wardrobe in 2008.

A is for Albam
Alastair Rae and James Shaw were so frustrated when they couldn't find the perfect white T-shirt that they set up their own menswear label, Albam, to fill the gap. Featuring casual classics at affordable prices, Albam's small but perfectly formed collection includes well-made essentials that regular blokes won't shy away from, such as indigo straight-leg jeans for £70; a sellout Fisherman's cagoule in tangerine for £160, and striped merino sweaters for £75. New for spring is a dapper blazer, available from early February. And, yes, there's the perfect white T-shirt. It's made from Egyptian cotton and costs a very reasonable £25.
Albam (020 3157 7000; www.albamclothing.com)
 

B is for Barbour
It was only a matter of time before the British brand famous for its quilted jackets and favoured by HRH the Queen (it boasts three royal warrants) wriggled its way back into fashion. Established in 1894 by John Barbour, the 'country clothing' company fast became synonymous with the outdoorsy shooting, hunting, fishing stereotype. The new collections for men and women challenge those preconceptions with sleeker styling and the use of archive designs. For spring 2008, Barbour has also reintroduced its lightweight waxed silk to ladies wear, the first time the fabric's been used since the Twenties, when it was invented for visiting tropical climes. What with global warming, it could be a timely move.
Barbour (0800 009 988; www.barbour.com)

C is for Chiffoniers
Who do Kate Moss and Juliette Lewis call when they need a pair of knock 'em dead leggings? Leena Similu of Les Chiffoniers, of course. She's helped turn this iffy Eighties garment into a true must-have and ensured that Ms Moss kept her title as the queen of festival chic after she donned a PVC pair at Glastonbury this year. For spring 2008, the range includes oddly flattering petrol PVC leggings and sequin scattered styles. Similu has also branched out and added a few staple wardrobe items such as fi ne-jersey dresses and slinky T-shirts to her range. 'Spring is all about taking a holographic disco into a meadow,' explains Similu, cryptically. 'Wear our chaotic sequins in the daytime and our plain and simples at night.' We don't know what she means either, but it sounds like fun.

· Les Chiffoniers at Browns Focus, 38-39 South Molton Street, London W1 (020 7514 0063; www.brownsfashion.com)

D is for Dover Street Markets Accessories
Recently landed at London's emporium of cool are Comme des Garcons's covetable new limited-edition wallets and T-shirts. The line is emblazoned with artwork by New York urban artist Kaws. So you may not be able to afford a Banksy, but you can still bag yourself a little piece of graffiti art. Dover Street Market, 17-18 Dover Street, London W1 (020 7518 0680; www.doverstreetmarket.com)

E is for Eley Kishimoto at Cacharel
Brixton-based design duo Mark Eley and Wakako Kishimoto launched their kooky label back in 1996. It's known for retro-styling and unusual designs, and Eley Kishimoto prints have brightened the catwalks for the last decade. Now the pair have skipped across the Channel to work for Cacharel. Their first collection for the Paris fashion house, which promises to capture the youthful French spirit of the label, is due to hit the shops in autumn 2008. In the meantime, keep up to speed with their news by reading their wonderfully personal blog. www.eleykishimoto.com

Spring Summer 08 - Catwalk 9

F is for fabulous jeans
If there was something to be truly grateful for in 2007 it was that low-slung, thong-revealing jeans finally died a death. Hallelujah. It's hard to believe the trend lasted quite as long as it did. The new generation of It-jeans have higher waists and way more flattering cuts. The best for spring include J Brand's genius stretchy Bardot style in midnight with a lean leg and a high waist (available at Selfridges); Goldsign's wondrous sleek, slim-fitting, high-waisted style (stocked at Harvey Nichols); 18th Amendment's Colbert high-waisted flared jeans; and Earnest Sewn's high-rise Whiley style (www.start-london.com). Top of the crop, however, are by brilliant London-based brand Radcliffe, which employed ex-Savile Row-trained tailor David Chambers to help create the perfectly structured jeans. Its miraculous 'three-inch jean' available in three styles - the W2 skinny, SW3 wide leg and Portobello skinny cropped style - has extra coverage at the back so that when you bend down to pick up the kids/groceries, that shudder-inducing expanse of haunch is absent. Sometimes fashion really does make life better.

G is for girls done good
Sadie Frost and Jemima French started their fashion label Frost French in 2000 with a few frilly knickers and a string of champagne-fuelled parties. Eight years on and the brand has finally flourished into a chic and wearable label with a handful of stores selling great clothes at less-than-designer prices - think £150 for a big old chunky knit cardie or £290 for a proper winter coat. The spring/summer 2008 collection is packed with flirty little numbers which will make you feel 21 again, such as cheeky mini-dungaree dresses, girly ruffled knits (as good as any by Cacharel or Sonia by Sonia Rykiel) and cute Sixties-style rain macs in canary yellow. Check it out - you'll be very pleasantly surprised. Frost French, 22-26 Camden Passage, London N1 (020 7354 0053; www.frostfrench.com).

H is for Henry Holland
Designer Henry Holland and his best friend and muse model Agyness Deyn burst on to the London fashion scene a couple of seasons back. He won the love of the fashion crowd and established designers with his cheeky slogan T-shirts featuring neon-print phrases such as 'Get Your Freak on Giles Deacon' and 'UHU Gareth Pugh'. She won model of the year at the British Fashion Awards. This season, Holland is following Deyn into the mainstream. The 24-year-old has created a proper, (almost) grown-up collection which includes studded leather hot pants, circulation-stopping skinny jeans with devilish studded knees and foxy, figure-hugging minidresses. We covet the luscious studded leather bags designed by Stuart Vevers the most. www.houseofholland.co.uk. The bags are only available from Dover Street Market, 17-18 Dover Street, London W1 (020 7518 0680; www.doverstreetmarket.com).

I is for illustrated fashion
Miuccia Prada and pals have a thing about illustration this season; fairytale wood nymph drawings adorn much of the Prada collection, and acclaimed Swedish fashion illustrator Liselotte Watkins produced signature graphic, cartoon-like images for Miu Miu's spring/summer collection. Dolce & Gabbana are taking it one step further. The new collection features hand-painted dresses only available in limited edition; each is numbered, like a limited-edition art print. They are expected to fetch tens of thousands of pounds. Meanwhile, Jess Pemberton, the London illustrator we tipped last season, has just hooked up with Cath Kidston to develop a range of children's clothes. The boundaries between art and fashion have never been more blurred. Dolce & Gabbana limited-edition dresses are available from the newly reopened Dolce & Gabbana store at 6-8 Old Bond Street, London W1 (020 7659 9000)

J is for Jonathan Kelsey
At last, there's a new British shoe designer to get really excited about. Jonathan Kelsey has previously worked for Jimmy Choo and Giles Deacon, and has now launched his own line of beautifully crafted shoes. His distinctively modern aesthetic has garnered an eclectic fan base which includes everyone from Amy Winehouse (he's even named a shoe after the beehived singer) to actress Kate Bosworth. The spring 2008 collection features his signature cone-shaped heel and neat sculpted toe shapes. Manolo and Jimmy had better watch their step. www.jonathankelsey.com

K is for king of comebacks
London-based German designer Markus Lupfer closed his own line a few years back, much to the dismay of the fashion pack. What a thrill, then, to see him back and on top form with his debut collection for Spanish label Armand Basi. The range includes delicious fine-gauge knits and puckered silk trousers in cloud grey, a feather-light silk wrap dress in lavender and textural coloured raffia skirts - all of them adorned with slim neon belts cinching the silhouette in neatly at the waist. Perfect. Armand Basi, 189 Westbourne Grove, London W11 (020 7727 7789; www.armandbasi.com).

L is for Loewe's hot new designer
Accessories designer Stuart Vevers has injected rock 'n' roll cool into Mulberry for the past few years, and now he's taking the reins as creative director at luxury Spanish label Loewe. What to expect? Vevers's first collection won't be seen until the end of the year, but you can bet he'll revive the appeal of the label's heritage handbags. There is always room in the world for more It-bags. British designer Emma Hill, who has worked for Marc Jacobs, is filling Vevers's winkle-pickers at Mulberry. Loewe (www.loewe.com), available from Harrods, Knightsbridge, London SW1 (020 7730 1234)

M is for modern menswear
Fashion journalist Hywel Davies spent the last year interviewing the world's most important menswear designers and now he's written up his insights for a sleek and beautifully presented new book. Davies, who has written for Vogue, Elle and Dazed & Confused, works his way through the minds, motivations and inspirations of all 36 designers featured, including Aitor Throup, Raf Simons, Marc Jacobs and Kim Jones. 'So many fashion books are historical,' says Davies. 'I wanted this to be very modern.' Modern Menswear is published by Laurence King at £25 in February 2008

N is for Napapijri
You might not have heard of this hip, Finnish-born, Italian-owned label (pronounced Napa-piri; it's a Finnish word for Arctic Circle), but in Europe and the US it's the first place people go for stylish outdoor gear and skiwear. Its hooded Skidoo jacket is a best-seller. It was also the label of choice for Orlando Bloom, who recently accompanied his uncle (photographer Sebastian Copeland) on a mission to the South Pole to shoot imagery for the photographer's new book Antarctica: The Global Warning. Napapijri's newest invention is better suited for exotic climes, though: the revolutionary mosquito-proof jacket is available this spring. Napapijri is available from www.microzine.co.uk

 

O is for Oliver Peoples's 20th anniversary
It's hard to believe this LA eyewear brand was founded by designer Larry Leight two decades ago, but its 20th birthday celebrations are now under way. Though its sunglasses range only came into its own in 2000, since then the world's glossiest celebs, from Kate Moss to Nicole Richie, haven't been able to get enough of Peoples's giant shades. The Harlot style has been designed in a limited edition diamond-encrusted and gold trim for the anniversary. Buy them: they've become almost as iconic as Ray-Ban Aviators. www.oliverpeoples.com

P is for primary colours
Bright, simple colours lit up all the spring/summer catwalks from Calvin Klein's to Marni's. The high street has followed suit - and H&M has gone one better and teamed up with Finnish textile and clothing favourite Marimekko. Loved since the Fifties for its graphic prints in vibrant colours, Marimekko's input to the spring/summer collection doesn't disappoint. Their bold patterns transform the range of voluminous Seventies-style dresses, skirts and tunics. The line goes into H&M stores across the UK from April 2008. H&M (020 7323 2211)

 

 

Q is for Queen of Lippy
Poppy King is an Aussie based in downtown New York who looks like she's stepped right out of the Forties, thanks to her perpetually red pout. Though she started her own lipstick line at the tender age of 18, King went on to work for Estee Lauder's Prescriptives line, but the 33-year-old has now set up on her own again. Her new label, Lipstick Queen, includes 10 perfect shades of rouge available in two different types of lipstick, all at £15. Saint is a sheer lipstick with just a hint of colour and Sinner is creamy and opaque. In store from March is King's spanking new wonder product, Oxymoron, a lip and cheek palette in one for that fresh-as-a- spring-daisy look. It could change your beauty regime forever. Lipstick Queen is available exclusively at Space NK (020 8740 2085; www.spacenk.co.uk).

R is ruffle mania
Nothing epitomises the new feminine spirit of spring fashion as well as the ruffle. The trend turned up at the most sophisticated shows, from Alber Elbaz's Lanvin, where carefully constructed ruffles trimmed the tops of his signature cocktail dresses, to Viktor & Rolf, who framed models' faces with jumbo ruffled collars. British designer Christopher Kane opted for softer ruffles in elegant tiers, with more than a hint of Great Gatsby glamour. Look out for cheap (but chic) versions across the high street.

S is for swims
For the man who has spent a lot of time in bespoke John Lobb brogues, here's a novel idea: Swims, galoshes for the man about town. Swims's Norwegian designer Johan Ringdahl was inspired to recreate galoshes in order to protect his shoes from showers. Handily, these puppies - available in banana yellow, tangerine and black - are designed with an inner lining which polishes your shoes while you're wearing them. Who said rain couldn't be fun? Swims, £54, available at Oki-Ni (www.oki-ni.com).

T is for traveller chic
No, not the New Age variety, but what French Vogue editor Carine Roitfeld calls the 'neo hippy'. To you and me, that's a layered bohemian look with a slightly wispy silhouette. It featured across the spring catwalks in a big way, from Paul Smith - with his preppy take on the theme, epitomised by patterned silk scarves (an essential ingredient) tied neatly over voluminous silk peasanty shirts and swishy trousers - to D&G, who showed layered chiffon patchwork-print dresses with ruffled hems. Marni, Aquascutum, Prada and eternal promoter of boho-style Matthew Williamson also got in on the act. Come May, watch out for the wafting chiffon.

U is for utilitywear
While much of fashion is unashamedly frivolous this season, there's an alternative for the more intellectual dressers. These discerning folk should check out Old Town (www.old-town.co.uk), a small British label specialising in traditional workwear. Its stove pipes in Irish linen, Fleet double-breasted jacket in moleskin, or adorable Bungalow dress, an apron dress in cotton drill, should all appeal. Prices begin at £68 for a cotton Aertex shirt. Now add Comme des Garcons's chic new lace-up pumps, a simple vest by Michael Stars (available at Whistles) and bingo, workwear works for you.

V is for Vanity Fair
Vanity Fair has created some of the magazine world's most memorable covers - think pregnant, naked Demi Moore, the Reagans dancing at the White House, Liam and Patsy in the midst of the Nineties 'cool Britannia'. From February, you can admire them again when the National Portrait Gallery hosts an exhibition of the title's finest photography. There is work by Thirties photographers such as Cecil Beaton, Man Ray and Edward Steichen, and the magazine's revival in the Eighties means that new superstar snappers such as Herb Ritts and Nan Goldin are also represented. A special sub-exhibition focuses on VF's most famous photographer, queen of the lens Annie Leibovitz

W is for watches with style
Toy Watch is a US brand (a favourite of Oprah Winfrey's, in case you were wondering) which is fast gaining cult status due to its cheap and very cheerful lookalike versions of classic expensive watches, such as the Rolex Perpetual. The brand is so respected that businessmen who wouldn't normally be seen dead without a Rolex, Cartier or Omega have been wearing Toy Watches on casual days. If, however, you are prepared to spend a bit more cash on something seriously designer, take a look at Christian Dior's perfectly formed new Chiffre Rouge 102 watch. Chic tock. Toy Watch is available from www.brownsfashion.com. For details of the Chiffre Rouge, go to www.diorhomme.com

X is for X factor
No, not the stupid TV show, but that certain something that transforms the familiar into the exceptional. The accessories collections certainly have it this season, with brave new styles cropping up everywhere. DKNY has wacky platform sandals and Balenciaga has done knee-high woven sandal boots. Meanwhile, bags have gone super-bright - look at Celine's neon-yellow croc-skin bags and Chanel's reinterpretation of the classic gilt and quilt 2.55 bag in lemon. Most desirable of all is Sonia Rykiel's new Sergio shoe, which combines the two key trends: these brilliant platforms come in toxic-pink or bright grass-green.

Y is for Yves Saint Laurent blazer
Since designer Stefano Pilati started as creative director at Yves Saint Laurent in 2004, he's been subtly and stylishly reworking the brand's iconic products. For spring 2008, he's brought back the garment that Yves Saint Laurent made his own in the Seventies - the blazer. Pilati has updated it in various forms, from a boxy boyish style in petrol blue to sleek varieties with cropped arms, but the less adventurous needn't fret: the sleek and classic black style will also be available this season. Yves Saint Laurent, 171 Sloane Street, London SW1 (020 7235 6706)

Z is for Zoe Kravitz
When rock legend Lenny Kravitz is your dad and actress Lisa Bonet is your mum, life's given you a certain biological advantage, and Zoe Kravitz shows just how kind genes can be. The 19-year-old appeared in two films this year - No Reservations and The Brave One (but don't hold that against her) - and is rumoured to be heading for a fashion career, too. She was spotted in the front row at various spring/summer 2008 shows with her father, including Yves Saint Laurent and Roberto Cavalli, and she recently graced the cover of French style magazine Jalouse. It's only a matter of time before the New York belle is snapped up to model in a big ad campaign. Watch this face.



 
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